Give your love an Amaranta evening. story by El Don photography by Howard Wise

Chamorro de cordero en barbacoa

...I discovered that the word “amaranth” is ancient Greek for never-fading flower. Amaranth, the plant, was a staple in the diet of pre-Columbian Aztecs, who believed it had supernatural powers. Because of its religious overtones the Spanish tried to wipe out the plant. But they failed because—of course!—it never fades. Today, in Ecuador, the flowers are still boiled and added to aguardiente rum to create a drink purported to purify the blood. In Mexico, amaranth seeds are popped and mixed with a sugar solution to make the candy known as alegria, and it is also used to create the traditional Mexican drink atole.

There are many varieties of the amaranth plant and flower. One in particular, featuring ropes of striking ruby, chenille-like blooms, is named “Love Lies Bleeding”—just right for Estylo’s Valentine Issue. And the never-fading amaranth certainly suits this story, since the husband and wife owners of Amaranta Cocina Mexicana claim that their ventures inevitably blossom into success. So I felt prepared to visit Amaranta Cocina Mexicana. I just hoped the food tasted good as the restaurant’s interior looked.

...The Rallos have always shared a deep passion for food, and they welcomed me as enthusiastically into their restaurant and their circle of friends as if I were visiting their home for the weekend. The margaritas offered me by manager Frank Tognotti were the best I have ever had—and I’ve had plenty. Amaranta gives you a fruity drink that’s not overly sweet, and it packs a punch with some mighty fine tequila. ...

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Churros con crema y cajeta

Churros filled with Bavarian Crème and served with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce (Makes 12 4-inch long pieces and serves 4)

1 cup water
1 tbsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 egg
canola oil (as needed)
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup ground cinnamon
1/2 cup cajeta caramel
4 2-oz. scoops of vanilla bean ice cream
1 pastry bag with a #6 size star tip

In a medium saucepan, stir water, sugar and salt together. Bring the ingredients to a boil over medium heat. Remove the pan from the stove and add flour to the mixture all at once. Quickly beat ingredients together with a wooden spoon to blend completely. Put the pan back on medium low heat and continue beating until the mixture clings together and a film forms on the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat. Break an egg into the dough and quickly beat until the egg is absorbed and the mixture is smooth. In a medium heavy saucepan, pour oil to a depth of about 2 inches. Heat the oil over medium high heat to 350-400°F. (Test temperature with a small piece of dough, which should sizzle immediately when placed in the oil.) Put the churro mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a #6 star tip. Squeeze a 4-inch length of dough through the tip directly into the hot oil. Fry until golden, then dry on paper towels. Combine the sugar and ground cinnamon, and roll the churro in the mixture. Repeat until all 12 churros are made. For each dish, serve three churros, stacked diagonally on top of each other, with cajeta and a scoop of ice cream.